Koko Head is 1,048 stairs straight up an old railway track. Do it in the morning, then go lie down on a beach in Kailua. That's basically day two.
Oahu gets written off as the busy island. Fair. But four days here can still feel like a real adventure if you plan around the hikes and the tides. This is the plan I made, plus a food list long enough to need its own section.
At a glance
- Base in Waikiki and rent a car. Most of this list is outside Honolulu.
- Reserve Diamond Head and Hanauma Bay before you fly.
- Do the Koko Head stairs early, then rest on a Kailua or Lanikai beach.
- Some famous hikes are closed and patrolled. Don't trespass.
Where I stayed and how I got around
I based in Waikiki at the Waikiki Sand Villa on Ala Wai Blvd. Check in is 3pm, but they'll hold your bags if you land early. Parking is extra.
For the car I used Ones Rent A Car. They run a shuttle for airport pick up and drop off, which made it easy. You want a car on Oahu. Most of this list is outside Honolulu.
Day 1: Diamond Head, Makapu'u and Waikiki
Early flight, so this day is light on purpose. (If you're flying a budget carrier over, here's my trick for dodging bag fees.)
- Diamond Head. About 1.8 miles round trip. Non-residents need a reservation, so book it on the state parks site before you fly. Watch the last entry time.
- Makapu'u tide pools. Some climbing to get down, about 45 minutes on the trail. Wear real shoes for the climb and bring sandals for the pools.
- Waikiki Beach to finish. No plan needed.
Day 2: Hanauma Bay, Koko Head and the windward side
- Hanauma Bay. It's a protected nature preserve, and you'll need to reserve ahead. It's closed Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan your days around that.
- Koko Head. The 1,048 stairs. Go early before it gets hot.
- Back to the hotel to rest and clean up. You'll want it.
- Lanikai Beach or Kailua Beach Park. Kailua has fewer crowds and restrooms. Parking gets crowded at both.
Lanikai, with the Mokuluas out back.
Wading in at dusk.
Day 3: Gardens, a waterfall and the North Shore
- Ho'omaluhia Botanical Garden. Free to get in. The mountains behind it are a wall of green.
- Lulumahu Falls. You need a permit to enter. It's very muddy with stream crossings and a bamboo forest, about 1.7 miles. Wear water shoes. If it's been raining, push it to another day.
- Dole Plantation. Touristy, but an easy stop on the way north.
- Shark's Cove on the North Shore.
Waterfall day. Bring water shoes.
Day 4: Byodo-In, Mokoli'i and Kualoa
- Byodo-In Temple. A replica of the centuries old Byodo-in in Uji, Japan, sitting right under the Ko'olau cliffs. Small entry fee.
- Mokoli'i (often called Chinaman's Hat). Rent a kayak and paddle about a third of a mile out, then do the short hike on the island. Watch the tides.
- A macadamia nut farm stop on the way.
- Kualoa Ranch. I booked a late afternoon ATV tour. The valley is where a lot of movies were filmed, and the ridgelines are huge.
Under the Ko’olau cliffs on the windward side.
Worth knowing before you go
When I planned this, some of Oahu's famous hikes were closed and patrolled, including Haiku Stairs, the "Stairway to Heaven." Don't trespass. Check the current status of anything that sounds too good to be true.
A few other notes I kept:
- Crouching Lion hike. About 45 minutes for the short version, and it's dangerous. Only go when it's dry that day and the day before. Go early. Don't park at the trout farm, and don't leave anything in the car. Break ins are common there, and watch for broken glass.
- Mermaid Cove. Low tide only. Be careful.
- Waialua sunflowers. They only bloom certain months, so check before you drive out.
What I ate (or planned to)
My notes marked the sweet stuff, so here's the list split that way.
Savory: Musubi Cafe Iyasume, Maguro Brothers poke, Off the Hook Poke Market, Rainbow Drive-In, Ono Seafood, Joe's Grill, Fresh Catch, Helena's Hawaiian Food, Giovanni's Shrimp Truck.
Sweet: Island Vintage Coffee, Sunrise Shack, Leonard's Bakery for malasadas, Waiola Shave Ice, Sweet E's, Liliha Bakery, Matsumoto Shave Ice, Haleiwa Bowls.
Photo spots and best light
- Koko Head summit in the morning, looking back over Hanauma Bay.
- Lanikai early, when the water is calm and the beach is quiet.
- Byodo-In with the pond in front for a reflection. The cliffs behind it are often in cloud, which looks great.
- Kualoa in late afternoon light on the ridges.
- Makapu'u for tide pool details and big ocean behind.
FAQ
How many days do you need on Oahu?
Four days lets you do Diamond Head, Hanauma Bay, the windward side and the North Shore without rushing. Any less and you start choosing between hikes and beaches.
Do you need a car on Oahu?
If you want more than Waikiki, yes. I used Ones Rent A Car, which runs an airport shuttle.
Do you need reservations for Diamond Head and Hanauma Bay?
Yes. Non-residents need a Diamond Head reservation, and Hanauma Bay has to be reserved ahead. Book both before you fly.
How hard is the Koko Head hike?
It's 1,048 stairs straight up an old railway track, so it's a workout. Go early before it gets hot, and plan a rest afterward.
Book and plan
- Diamond Head reservations
- Hanauma Bay reservations
- Byodo-In Temple
- Kualoa Ranch tours
- Dole Plantation
- Ones Rent A Car
- Hawaii State Parks
If you want photos on Oahu, a sunrise session at the beach or something a little more adventurous, we'd love to shoot it. See our experiences or send us a note.
